Friday, August 26, 2005

I am in Khorog

I would have a lot to explain about the last week. My trip from Osh to Murghab was quite adventurous, with numerous breakdown of my truck, problems at the kirghize border and so on. I could also explain how nice the people here are and how beautiful is the pamir.

If I can stay in the Pamir, I will. But I've heard news from other travellers who couldn't stay in the Pamir, since they haven't their GBAO permit. They were caught in Khorog (where I am currently) by the KGB, asked on how they have reached Khorog without permit and finally deported to Dushambe on the spot.

If it happens to me, it means that all my plans fall down, and it makes me very sad. That's the reason why I am not keen of explaining everything now. I will keep you updated on the situation.

Ce qu'il faut dire a ma maman:

Non, je n'ai pas visite les prisons kirghizes: En fait c'etait pas loin. Car depuis mon arrivee a Bishkek, c'est une somme de galeres. J'ai tout eu. Les bagages perdues, le transport vers le tadjikistan annule, puis mon camion, deux fois repousse, tombe 10 fois en panne durant les premieres 5 heures de route. L'autre camion du convoi n'est pas en meilleur etat... moralite: Au lieu de traverser la frontiere kirghize-tadjike le 19 Aout comme le veut le programme ( et mon visa...), nous arrivons a cette maudite frontiere le matin du 20 Aout.... Evidemment, le petit officier en charge des passeports le voit. C'est la qu'il joue de sa petite autorite. Il commence par crier des mots qu'il sait que je comprends pas. Je le vois jouir a l'idee de me casser. Passe les mots falsifier, Osh, terroriste. Puis les signes tres peu ambigu de prison. En gros, il me menace de me remettre au KGB kirghize, a Osh. Case depart.
Puis, dans sa guerre psychologique, il me fait attendre plus d'une demi-heure devant son bureau. Plusieurs fois, il passe devant moi en faisant ostensiblement expres de ne pas me voir. Puis il montre son autorite en ordonnant l'appel de ses jeunes troupes. Tous, beau alignes, se font passer un savon.
C'est trop gros! Je me rends compte, apres qu'un autre de mes passagers me demande combien je veux payer pour passer, qu'il bombe son torse pour faire monter les prix.
Apres une demie heure, il me convoque a nouveau dans son bureau. Il me crie a nouveau ses mots que je ne comprends pas puis me dit
-CHOROK
(ce qui veut dire 40)
Je joue a l'idiot:
-Chorok, kak? (40 quoi?)
-Chorok, OSH
-Chorok kak?
Il s'enerve vraiment et me montre la porte. Je peux passer. La, je pousse un peu le bouchon: Je regarde mon passeport et je remarque qu'il n'y a pas de Stampel de sortie, ce que je lui fait remarquer... Il n'aime pas du tout et me montre avec plus de force et de decibel la porte. Je ne demande plus mon reste. Je sors!

Thursday, August 18, 2005

Jour 6: Comment charger un camion

[Ces sacres ordinateurs, ils ne veulent pas charger mes photos...]
Le dernier camion que l'on m'a attribue est charge. Voila comment ca se passe.
1.- Prenez un tres vieux camion, appartenant a la fondation Aga Khan et a la banque islamique. Le camion doit etre si possible russe et consommant 260 l de diesel pour 400km.Tentez de reparer les freins, et le carburateur. Les suspensions? Il y a longtemps qu'il y en a plus.
3- Fumez une clope
4.-Remplissez la benne de votre camion a moitie par des rations de 20 cl de lait aux differents aromes, rations payees par la fondation Aga Khan, que l'on appelle ici le "dieu qui apporte de la nourriture". Ajoutez-y quelques sacs de riz et de farine.
5.- Fumez une clope et saluez le passant en lui demandant comment va la famille.
6.- Trouvez un ami paysan, achetez-lui 200 kg de tomates et 200kg de pommes, (avec lesquelles vous ferez 0,5 dollars de benefice par kg. a Murghab). Chargez-les et payez votre ami. Maintenant, la benne est fermee. Mais il est temps d'ajouter quelques pasteques que vous jetterez depuis une voiture parquee au pied de votre camion. Comptez une perte de 10 % dans les jets manques.
7.- Fumez une clope
8.- Un marchand de Murghab arrive. Il veut faire transporter pour environ 150kg de chaussettes, planches a repasser et autres babioles. Poussez un peu les pasteques et les pommes, tirez par un astucieux jeux de cordes les balots de marchandises dans la benne (aux portes toujours fermees). Faites-vous desirer une seule fois lorsque le marchand propose de payer le trajet. La seconde fois, vous cedez.
9.- Fumez une clope et siphonez un peu de diesel du reservoir de votre camion (rempli par l'ami Aga Khan) au flic qui est venu vous extorquer.Offrez lui de plus une clope .
10.- Votre camion est plein. Ca fait 2 heures que votre camion croule sous 35 degres. Versez un peu d'eau sur le lait, au cas ou il pourrait tourner.
11.- Fumez une clope.
12.- Un menuisier arrive. Il vient de terminer une porte, avec poignee en inox. Il doit la livrer a Murghab. Chargez la porte sur les rations de lait et faites-vous prier une seule fois lorsqu'il veut vous payer le trajet.
13.- Le camion est encore plus plein. Couronnez votre Tetris en deposant le bagage de votre passager-touriste au sommet de la pyramide, fermez la bache et sanglez le tout.
14.- Fumez une clope. Payez quand - meme votre manutentionnaire. Il pourra se payer sa 3e dent en or.
15.- Revenez dans moins de 10 heures pour partir (?!?) pour Murghab - Khorog.

Wednesday, August 17, 2005

Jour 6: Toujours a Osh

Et la galere continue...

J'aurai du partir hier au soir avec le camion de la fondation Aga Khan. Mais le convoi a ete reporte, pour cause de probleme de douane. Ensuite, Nazar, le chauffeur-mathematicien, me propose de partir avec un autre convoi a minuit. Aventures dans les rues de Osh a minuit pour trouver la station ou se trouvent les camions. On arrive: Les camions ne partent pas. Probleme mechanique pour un des camions, donc tout le convoi attendra.

Donc aussi, le lait en paquet de 33 cl, a l'arome de framboise, de citron et d'abricot, devra attendre encore une journee sous les 35 degres d'Osh. Les specialistes en sciences alimentaires apprecieront la tenue de la chaine du froid... Plus egoistement, ca m'emm... pour etre poli. Car mon visa kirghize expire demain!!!!! Et si le convoi ne part pas cette nuit a minuit comme dernierement prevu, je suis dans la merde jusqu'au cou.

En attendant, j'ai dormi dans la cabine du camion qui est sense m'amener a bon port. La, j'attends. En fait, c'est tres interessant de passer une journee a ne rien faire, a observer les faits et gestes de ceux qui m'entourent. Les policiers qui passent pour extorquer quelques litres de benzine, les chauffeurs qui preparent la vodka pour les douaniers, les petits trafics de pommes et tomates pour le Badakhshan. Et l'attente. L'Attente... C'est un art! Surtout pour un suisse...

Hier au soir, j'etais chez Nazar, le chauffeur-mathematicien, pour diner. Sa fille - 16 ans - parle parfaitement l'allemand, et la discussion fut tres interessante... La mere, kirghize du fin fond du Badakhshan (Shaymak, allez voir sur une carte si vous trouvez. C'est le dernier village avant la frontiere chine-pakistan-tajikistan-afghanistan), raconte les histoires de ces arriere-arriere grand parents, lorsque la region etait le centre des commerces et des rencontres des differentes tribues. Puis vient le temps de Staline, des deportations, et des soviet. La mere joue parfaitement son role de la transmission des traditions et des mythes (tout ce qu'elle dit n'est pas vrai, c'est evident!). Mais la fille s'en fout! Elle repond a sa mere que les vieilles histoires, c'est ennuyeux. Le fils? Il connait par coeur Fifty Cents... Marrant...

J'espere honnetement que ce message sera le dernier pour les deux prochaines semaines, car cela signifirait que mon camion est bien parti, et que les douaniers tajiks n'ont pas ete trop regardant sur mon permit GBAO.

A bientot!

Tuesday, August 16, 2005

Jour 4: Enfin a Osh

Quelle galere!

Vraiment! Aeroflot, c'est plus ce que c'etait. L'annee passee, nous avons eu droit a du saumon pour les repas. Cette fois-ci, du poulet premache. Pour couronner le tout, ils ont meme reussi a perdre mes bagages. Avec mes connaissances parfaites de russe, j'ai pu engueuler le responsable, qui en fait n'etait responsable de rien, et j'ai du attendre une journee dans la magnifique ville de bishkek.

Mieux encore, Bishkek fetait son nouveau president Bakaiev! Donc tous les hotels miteux que le lonelyplanet conseille sont complet. J'ai du me rabattre sur un hotel style sovietique a 30 USD....En fait, j'aurais bien voulu feter le nouveau president avec toutes ces demoiselles endimanchees, mais lorsque j'ai demande a l'une d'entre elle s'il etait possible de rentrer dans la "zone reservee", elle m'a regarde de haut en bas et m'a dit avec applomb et dans son anglais parfait:

" Mais vous etes tellement mal habille!"

Elle s'est retournee et est partie. Par consequent, je n'ai pu voir que ceci de la fete (la photo ne veut pas partir de mon appareil numerique... zut...

Le deuxieme jour, c'etait la descente vers Osh. Il nous a fallu 13 heures pour arriver a bon port, plus deux heures d'attente avant que le taxi ne se remplisse... J'etais avec un politicien bizarre, venant de Moscou et d'une prof d'anglais a l'universite de Osh. On a gueuletonne chaque 100km d'une biere kazakh, d'une vodka regionale et de delicieuses truites... Mais bon, quand meme, 13 heures de vieilles Volkswagen, c'est pas le top...

Il faut pas que je me plaigne, car dans la nuit de mercredi a jeudi, je pars pour Murghab au Tajikistan dans un vieux camion qui date de la derniere guerre que j'ai trouve grace a la fondation Aga Khan (grace aux conseils de Dorothea). On prevoit 30 heures de routes... Je me rejouis deja! ;-))

Voila pour mes aventures. La galere commencera vraiment jeudi, car je vais tenter de rentrer au Tajikistan sans le permis necessaire... D'autres touristes l'ont fait il y a quelques jours, et ils se sont fait taper sur les doigts... Let's see...

Je serais probablement de retour sur le net demain avant de partir...

Thursday, August 11, 2005

D-2: My trek's routes

Here are the region in the tajik's Pamirs I have planned to visit.


* Lake Yashil Kul
The lake Yashil Kul is situated a few kilometers North of the Pamir Highway, between Khorog and Murghab, at the altitude of 3700m. Depending on the transport I'll find, I will start my trek from Alichur or Bulunkul and follow the trail at the northern shore of the lake before going down the Gunt valley to Batchor. I plan to trek during 3-4 days, depending from where I start. The path is easy, since the highest altitude seems to be a pass at 3900m. A perfect warm up.





* From the Sakhdara valley to the Panj Valley
The second region of the Pamirs I'll visit will be the Shakhdara valley. From here, there are plenty of different routes, going North to the Gunt valley or south to the Panj Valley. The easiest route would be to start from the village of Zigur, heading West to join the Panj valley at the village of Nishusp. Starting from 2700m, I will hike the first day to end of the valley, at 4000m. The second day, I head to the pass at 4300m and go down to Nishup. Less than 20 km with an elevation of 1600m, this route haven't any difficulties.

The second possibility in this valley is to start from Vezdara, south of Roshkala and will join the village of Garmchashma. The route is more difficult, since their is a glacier on the top of the Garmshashma valley and longer (30 km). The elevation is of the order of 1300m, starting from 3400m and going up to 4800m. I will probably avoid this road.



* Dasht - Vrang
The last possibility between the two valleys is a route which starts from Dasht and goes to the Zoroastrian village of Vrang. The difficulty is also higher, since the pass is at 5100m and the elevation amounts to more than 2000m. The 35km could be done in 4-5 days. It is the most beautiful route for sure, but the most difficult as well... I will probably not take this road.

D-2: Tajik Pamir: Info from Bruno de Cordier

Bruno de Cordier, one of the pillars of the thorntree of LP post this very interesting post on the travel in Pamir from Kyrghyzstan. You can find there useful informations on the transport, administration, permit and accomodation.

D-2: Tajikistan: British climbers missing

One newsarticle of the Guardian which makes us remember that there will be no help in case of problems...

Wednesday, August 10, 2005

D-3: Tajikistan: Maps

Yesterday evening, I finished to print the collection of maps I need for my treks. I used the 1:100,000 military maps I've founded on numerical library of the Berkeley. I did not used the output of the interactive map of the CDE program of the Bern University, since they are based on a 1:200,000 map. However, I've used the latter since trails are better marked: I reproduced the trails noticed in the Bern's map on the 1;100,000 printed map.

I've cutted the map in A4 pieces and reinforced them with transparent cover. With them, I formed a small booklet with the region of the lake Yashikul, the valley of Shakhdara and Ishkashim, as well as the lake Iskenderkul in the case where I wouldn't go to Afghanistan.

On Afghanistan: Even if the maps are supposed to be russian maps on Tajikistan, its borders with Afghanistan can also be found. I then printed the region of the Shiva lake, at the border with Khorog. Just in case.

Apart from these trekking maps, I bought the M. Hauser map on the tajik Pamir (1:500,00) as well as a general Central Asia map.

Less than 3 days left...

D-3: Afghan Pamir: Disscussion with a french traveller

I had a very interesting discussion with Regis, which is also called route on the voyageforum and thorntree. He just comes back from Northern Afghanistan where he trekked in the wakhan, as well as the little and great pamir.

His voice seems to indicate a quiet man who doesn't exaggerate his travel but explain smoothly what he did. If I would compare this discussion with the one I had with Ariane Perret, the swiss journalist, I would characterize her voice to be the one of a half-hysterical woman. He gave me a lot of useful informations on the transport and accomodation in the Badakhshan, as well as some personnal impression on the nowadays situation in the region, with the game with the different warlords and letter of introductions. I will not list here his advices.

In short, I told me that the road between Ishkashim and Feizabad is broken at Goushim. There, we should change the car. Moreover, I didn't know that the buses start at 4-5 am! He gave me the address of some hotel and guesthouse and advised me not a chaikhana without indian music clip in Ishkashim. ;-) He mentioned some tensions in Baharak between some warlords but felt himself in safety there.
3 days left....

Tuesday, August 09, 2005

D-4: Uzbek visa

After more than 10 days, I have my passport with my uzbek visa. I needed to phone to their embassy in Paris ( by chance and after many unsuccessful phone calls...) to make them hurry up. My passport was ready since days, but they waited for I-dont-know-what to sent it off. The same happened with the kyrghiz embassy in Geneva.

Today, I will go to the afghan embassy in Geneva.

4 days left.

D-4: 13 minutes for an afghan visa

I am just coming back from the Permanent Mission of Afghanistan in Geneva. For 40 CHF, a picture and a filled application form, they give you a visa for one month and multiple entries. As expected, it was very easy...

Mission de la R.I d'Afghanistan
Rue de Lausanne 63
1201 Geneve

+4122/731.14.49

Monday, August 08, 2005

D-5: MCU Moby Capital Updates

I found last week (once again on kabulcaravan) an interesting link to a mailing list called Moby Capital Updates. It sends you an almost daily update of the newsarticle on Afghanistan. That's the place where I found the news on the kidnapping in Badakhshan. It seems to be a very valuable website to keep updated on the situation on the field.

D-5: Dans 5 jours...

Dans 5 jours, ce sera le depart vers l'inconnu. Meme si je connais Bishkek et Osh, et que j'atterrirai dans un territoire deja apprivoise, le vol d'Aeroflot pour Bishkek m'emmene vers une somme d'inconnue. Des que j'aurai quitter Osh, chaque jour sera une decouverte et chaque jour ignorera ce dont le lendemain sera fait. Ce sera une rencontre avec la haute altitude, des mon arrivee au Tadjikistan, une autre avec une facon de vivre differente des mon arrivee a Murghab. Puis ce sera deja la bataille avec les administrations, pour le permis de voyage que je n'ai pas, avec le KGB pour l'inscription au controle des habitants. Puis l'inconnu continuera. Il faudra trouver un transport jusqu'a Alichur, ou meme mieux, jusqu'a Bulunkul. Puis la marche, durant 3 ou 4 jours vers un village dont je ne sais rien: Batchor. De la, il faudra a nouveau trouver un moyen de locomotion pour Khorog.

Mais entre temps, il y aura un magnifique lac turquoise, de hauts plateaux et des montagnes imposantes. Il y aura la paisible solitude du marcheur et les rencontres avec des cavaliers fiers, au visage forme par les vents et le froid. J'aurai peut etre la chance de gouter a un bol de Kumys, ce lait de jument fermente, ou de son semblable tajik, pour me dire que je n'aime pas ca. Je pourrai a nouveau profiter de ce ciel pur, couvert de ces myriades d'etoiles qu'on a plus la chance de voir ici en Europe.

Puis, il y aura Khorog, la premiere rencontre avec un environnement citadin depuis Osh, c'est a dire depuis deux semaines. Il faudra encore une fois se battre avec les administrations, le KGB. Il faudra trouver un cafe internet, pour soulager les proches avant de repartir. Repartir vers d'autres montagnes, entre la vallee de Sukhdara et celle d'Ishkashim. De voir ces sommets, qui sont en meme temps le toit du monde et un rappel d'un passe revolu: le pic Marx, le pic Engels... Ce sera aussi le temps de prendre une decision importante: celle de traverser le legendaire Oxus, autrement appelle le Pamir (panj) ou Amu Daria. Traverser un fleuve mythique pour se retrouver dans un pays mythique. Est-ce que je vais suivre les avertissements de mes amis, ou d'inconnus pour qui le risque ne faut pas la chandelle. Ou est-ce que je ne suis que mon envie de decouvrir d'autres peuples, d'autres horizons?

Je ne sais pas encore si je traverserai l'Oxus.

Dans 5 jours, ce sera donc un saut dans l'inconnu. Mon esprit est envahi d'un melange de craintes profondes et d'excitation extreme. La moitie de mon esprit se trouve deja entre Murghab et Khorog, perdu dans ces montagnes arides. Mes litres d'eau, une vieille carte militaire russe dans mon sac et mes yeux grand ouverts. Je suis deja la-bas, en train de faire mon overdose de paysages somptueux, de kumys que je n'aime pas, et de chevauchees fantastiques. Mais en meme temps, j'ai une crainte diffuse de cet inconnu que je recherche tant. Il y a tous ces parametres que je ne maitrise pas, trouver un camion a Osh, traverser la frontiere sans le permit GBAO, puis les transports, la nourriture. Tous ces parametres qui font une partie de la beaute du voyage mais qui destabilisent l'Europeen moyen pour qui tout est regle et organise.

Je pars dans 5 jours, mais en fait, j'y suis deja.

Sunday, August 07, 2005

D-6: News article: Kidnapping, once again

A news agency, unknown to me, Pajhwok Afghan News, reports a kidnapping of 26 afghans (non foreigners):

Quote:

TALOQAN/FAIZABAD - Unidentified gunmen kidnapped the Reserved Border Police Unit commander along with 25 constables in Ragh district of the remote northeastern Badakhshan province, officials said on Thursday.

Badakhshan police chief Colonel Shah Jahan Noori claimed drugs-traffickers were behind the abduction of Enayatullah and his subordinates. Although he did not elaborate on the assertion, he said a smuggler had claimed responsibility for the kidnap.

Noori quoted one Safiullah, living across the frontier in Tajikistan, as saying Enayatullah connived with him at drug-trafficking. Saifullah's men kidnapped the border police unit head after he stole from them 50 pieces of weapons and $2.5 million cash, Shah Jahan Noori added.

However, commander of the provincial army corps Colonel Ghulam Mohammad Farhad rejected as baseless the allegation regarding Enayatullah's complicity in drug-trafficking. "As the commander was dead-set against the menace in the region, drugs barons managed to have him kidnapped along with 25 policemen," Farhad noted.

Ruling out any compromise with the kidnappers for the release of abductees, he said police were closing in on the smugglers hiding in Ragh district. "We are trying to secure their release without any of bloodshed," he continued.

The kidnappers had not yet communicated to them any conditions for the release of the abductees, Farhad maintained, reiterating the incident would not deter law-enforcers from their campaign to eradicate the scourge of drugs business from the region.

Confirming the incident, border police chief in Kabul, Samiullah Qatra, told Pajhwok Afghan News they had sent a delegation to the border area to investigate the case after receiving the report. He too saw smugglers,
not anti-government groups, behind the incident.

Even if no foreigners have been kidnapping, it is no good sign at all...

Friday, August 05, 2005

D-8: Discussion with a swiss journalist

I had an interesting phone call today with A. Perret. She's a swiss journalist who was in Afghanistan during the beginning of the "Enduring Freedom" campaign. I tried to contact her since months, but she did not answer my phone calls. By some reasons, yesterday, I could reach her voice messager. She answered today.

Obviously, even if she called me back after she knew what I wanted, she did not want to speak about Afghanistan. Or just to say that I was a fool to go there. It is somehow understandable: I wasn't the first guy who phoned to her asking for informations about it. She could be upset to hear once again a young want-to-be adventurer asking her which hotel is the best in Feizabad....

After I expained my project, she explained her politic: she doesn't give any informations to travelers. If I would be a NGO's worker, it would have been different! Then she began to explain how dangerous the situation has become, how the legendary afghan hospitality has disappeared since 2001. She darkens the situation quite strongly.

It is always interesting to hear different point of views. I will have to think about it...

I am still not sure to cross the border when I will be in Ishkashim.

D-8: Tourism in Afghanistan: Cartoon

I found a hilarious but so true cartoon in the website KabulCaravan on the tourism in Afghanistan:

made by Ted Rall

Thursday, August 04, 2005

D-9: Tourist's Responsability in Afghanistan

Yesterday, electricnomad had a quite strong discussion with "Fabrice Naps" on the thorntree of LP. I know both of them by email contact. It was not the first time that electricnomad, who seems to live in Feizabad, expressed his strong opinion, and it was not the first time that naps reacts strongly to post on travel's forum.

The main point of electricnomad was the responsability of the tourists when they travel in regions like Afghanistan.

Quote:

I believe that every tourist who gets into trouble in Afghanistan is directly responsible for the country's lack of development


I thought a little bit today about that statement and the explanation which followed. He explained that everytime there is a kidnapping, the security measure on the NGO and GO's staff get stronger and makes their work more difficult, espacially the contact with the population. Furthermore, the investments in the region as well as the recruiting of new NGO workers become harder, since the kidnapping is a sign of instability.

His point of view is very interesting in many ways. First, It shows how the NGO workers will react when they'll meet independant travelers like me in the country: (quite) negatively. Second, how responsable is a tourist when he is travelling in countries in reconstruction like Afghanistan? I haven't been there yet, therefore my ideas are very "theoretical". But:

First, I can easily agree with electricnomad. Everytime a foreigner is kidnapped, the image of the situation in the world, as well as the security measure for workers on the fields get worse. That's a fact. Moreover, everytime there is a foreigner without a structure taking care of his security, the risk of being kidnapped is bigger. (here, I do not speak about "well integrated" foreigners, speaking dari and linked in some way with the population. ) However, the security analysis should be differentiate. The situation in the North of the country is surely not the same as in the South. Even if the risk is not zero in Badakhshan, it is not equally distributed with the other part of the country.

But there are factors which have much more influence on the situation for the NGO workers on the field: The first one is the promise made by our governments which have not been fulfilled. They promised a lot of money and help. Some reports seem to indicate that only a percentage of it arrived on the field. That could make the work of the NGOs more difficult!

The second is the presence of a number of so called NGO's in Afghanistan which do not work for the developpment of the country. That's what caryatid on the thorntree of LP called SCUD ( standard construction unit for development). Even if they haven't yet harmed the image of the NGO outside the country, it seems that it is the case inside the country. (Once again, as I haven't been there yet, and therefore, all that is theoretical...). Such SCUD could also become a Public Relation disaster.

Finally, what should be the goal of the aid workers there? Should it be the poppy eradication, the egality of chance for men and women or the construction of roads, of schools, of durable cultivation and development of the economy? All that is important. But what are the priorities for the country?

I think that the factors I mentioned here are at least as important for the lack of development of Afghanistan, as the presence of independant travelers.

Electricnomad concluded by the remark:
Quote:
Tourists are dangerous to Afghanistan right now

I think that Afghanistan faces much bigger challenges and dangers at the moment than stupid tourists. But this sentence was probably just a provocation.

D-9: New kidnapping in Herat

The news agency AFP reports that two afghan aid workers are missing in the werstern Afghanistan. Until now, kidnappings have taken place more in Kabul and in the south of the country. But until now, we do not know what has happen in Herat and what is the meaning of this event. Wait and see. But in any case, the situation until the election should not ameliorate.

Wednesday, August 03, 2005

D-10: Warlordism in Northeast Afghanistan

I found an old IRIN article in the ariana website on the warlords in the northern region of Afghanistan. Nothing new, but it stresses in an useful way some facts: Even if Badakhshan in considered to be the safest place in Afghanistan and even if the PPR program (Disarmament Demobilisation and Reintegration) is present in Feizabad, the warlordism is still present, not suprisingly connected to the drug production. The article refers to a clash between two such warlords in April 05 which involved heavy weapons and to some nice officials asking for more weapons to get ride of the evil warlords. But I would not be surprised to hear that even the nice officials are in some way warlords. The weapon they want would just allow them to be even stronger warlords.

For a traveler, the article is an useful recall. It recalls that even if the situation in Northern Afghanistan could seem to be quieter than the south, the tensions and the potential for an eruption of violence is still present. But newsarticles are like vaccine. It needs to be refreshed.

Monday, August 01, 2005

D-12: Just a small trek

Once again, I hiked a little bit in the Swiss Alps to train myself to the tajik's trek and to get used to my new stuff. Here are some pictures.



It was a 2-days trek with a light first day to the lac fenetre, at the border with Italy. We overnighted their. The second day, we trekked through the Col des Bastillons to Bourg Saint Bernard.








n